Common Problems
Even though a fixed gear bike is relatively simple in design when compared to the geared bikes with derailleurs and multi-gear cassettes, there are still issues for which they are notorious.
Every bike needs to be well maintained. Tighten bolts tight, check your lock ring before riding and keep them tight, keep the tires properly inflated and check your seat and handlebars to make sure that they aren't getting loose before you ride, EVERY TIME. This is redundant, but just like flying a plane, riding a bicycle involves moving parts that need proper maintenance for a safe trip between point A and point B. Without maintenance... You crash.
Every bike needs to be well maintained. Tighten bolts tight, check your lock ring before riding and keep them tight, keep the tires properly inflated and check your seat and handlebars to make sure that they aren't getting loose before you ride, EVERY TIME. This is redundant, but just like flying a plane, riding a bicycle involves moving parts that need proper maintenance for a safe trip between point A and point B. Without maintenance... You crash.
Stripped Threads
ABOUT THE WORST SUCK A FIXIE CAN INCUR WITHOUT ACCIDENT
Commonly, you'll notice when your threads are stripped very quickly. The tell-tale symptom of stripped threads is the following scenario:
You go to launch from a stop and you bear down HARD on your pedal. The bitch spins the crank, but your back tire goes NOWHERE.
OR...
You go to apply back pressure to stop or try performing a skid stop only to find that the rear tire does not respond at all. You are effectively BRAKELESS and have to circle around in a parking lot until you lose speed.
Now, these issues MAY (if you're lucky) JUST BE that your cog or lock ring weren't tight enough and they loosened over the course of riding. If that is the case, check out "Fixes to Common Problems" for the answer on how to tighten these up. Even without a chain whip/ lock ring tool, it is possible to get both elements here on and off with only a hammer and pick (needlenose pliers work well, too).
Now... if you've followed the instructions on "Fixes to Common Problems", you know how to get your cog and lock ring on and off.
The best way to CHECK to see if your threads are stripped is to remove your cog and lock ring. If you see "missing threads", your threads are stripped. The picture above does a good job of showing what to look for - if there are strips of metal and smooth parts where threads should be - you're in trouble.
At this point, the best thing to do is to take your bike into the local bike shop (LBS) and prepare your wallet for a solid hit. Depending on the quality of the components that you get, you may wind up paying between $100 - $300. Labor is a real pain in the ass, so if you can get the parts yourself (and the tools you'll need), there are video tutorials out there on how to replace a wheel, hub, cog and more.
You go to launch from a stop and you bear down HARD on your pedal. The bitch spins the crank, but your back tire goes NOWHERE.
OR...
You go to apply back pressure to stop or try performing a skid stop only to find that the rear tire does not respond at all. You are effectively BRAKELESS and have to circle around in a parking lot until you lose speed.
Now, these issues MAY (if you're lucky) JUST BE that your cog or lock ring weren't tight enough and they loosened over the course of riding. If that is the case, check out "Fixes to Common Problems" for the answer on how to tighten these up. Even without a chain whip/ lock ring tool, it is possible to get both elements here on and off with only a hammer and pick (needlenose pliers work well, too).
Now... if you've followed the instructions on "Fixes to Common Problems", you know how to get your cog and lock ring on and off.
The best way to CHECK to see if your threads are stripped is to remove your cog and lock ring. If you see "missing threads", your threads are stripped. The picture above does a good job of showing what to look for - if there are strips of metal and smooth parts where threads should be - you're in trouble.
At this point, the best thing to do is to take your bike into the local bike shop (LBS) and prepare your wallet for a solid hit. Depending on the quality of the components that you get, you may wind up paying between $100 - $300. Labor is a real pain in the ass, so if you can get the parts yourself (and the tools you'll need), there are video tutorials out there on how to replace a wheel, hub, cog and more.
Flat Tires
Flat tires are a problem with every bike. Fixed gear bikes are no different than any other bike in this regard: your best protection against this is by investing in quality tires that are resistant to puncture because they're made of several layers of rubber that have varying densities.
When and if you get a flat, it is relatively simple to fix, so long as you have the proper equipment. A portable air pump, an adjustable wrench and a replacement inner tube are smart things to take with you anywhere and everywhere you go.
There are other ways to get around a flat tire such as using a self-healing gel, (a popular brand is called Slime) or by investing in tubeless tires. Slime is a temporary fix and it has greatly mixed reviews on how well it works. While it may hold for a few miles, there are plenty of accounts that report that soon after applying gel, the puncture or tear re-opens only to leave you where you were shortly ago. While tubeless tires aren't bad, they can still get flats. They tend to be heavier than normal tires and they come in a VERY limited variety of sizes. Not to mention, they don't just "fit into" standard wheel wells. You'll most likely have to replace your wheels just to take advantage of tubeless tires. On the bright side, they are MUCH thicker than tires that accommodate for tubes and they'll suffer fewer flats than a tubular tire under similar conditions.
When and if you get a flat, it is relatively simple to fix, so long as you have the proper equipment. A portable air pump, an adjustable wrench and a replacement inner tube are smart things to take with you anywhere and everywhere you go.
There are other ways to get around a flat tire such as using a self-healing gel, (a popular brand is called Slime) or by investing in tubeless tires. Slime is a temporary fix and it has greatly mixed reviews on how well it works. While it may hold for a few miles, there are plenty of accounts that report that soon after applying gel, the puncture or tear re-opens only to leave you where you were shortly ago. While tubeless tires aren't bad, they can still get flats. They tend to be heavier than normal tires and they come in a VERY limited variety of sizes. Not to mention, they don't just "fit into" standard wheel wells. You'll most likely have to replace your wheels just to take advantage of tubeless tires. On the bright side, they are MUCH thicker than tires that accommodate for tubes and they'll suffer fewer flats than a tubular tire under similar conditions.
Can't Get Into Bike Pedal Straps
Pedal straps are the best when it comes to control of your bike. Without them, hopping and skidding become extremely difficult.
A common issue that new fixed gear riders deal with is getting "strapped in". Depending on what kind of straps you use, you'll find varying success in flipping your pedals with the tip of your foot and slipping in comfortably.
Often new riders will try flipping their pedals with buckle straps or equivalent types of weak straps only to find the strap fall to the side, making it difficult to slip into. The best way to tackle this is to continue to adjust the straps until you find that they are reliably poised in position when you spin the pedal. Once you can strap into your pedal straps, the more you ride in them, the better molded they'll get.
As seen above, there are straps with toe clips that are widely renowned for being easy to get into. The toe clips keep the strap open and they allow you to more easily strap in while riding. One major issue with these types of straps is durability. Regardless of the toe clips, lots of use or a bad bail can very easily break your clips, leaving you essentially strapless, (the tiny straps that work with toe clips just don't have the strength you'll want when performing advanced techniques.
Perhaps the best suggestion that can be given to people that don't have the ideal straps listed below is to tie the excess material that you feed through your straps, (if you were smart and went with something other than leather). By tying the material, you'll be saving yourself a tremendous amount of trouble later. Nylon or synthetic fabric materials tend to be slick and they slip out from buckles easily. Leather isn't bad when it comes to adjusting your straps but it definitely has disadvantages.
A common issue that new fixed gear riders deal with is getting "strapped in". Depending on what kind of straps you use, you'll find varying success in flipping your pedals with the tip of your foot and slipping in comfortably.
Often new riders will try flipping their pedals with buckle straps or equivalent types of weak straps only to find the strap fall to the side, making it difficult to slip into. The best way to tackle this is to continue to adjust the straps until you find that they are reliably poised in position when you spin the pedal. Once you can strap into your pedal straps, the more you ride in them, the better molded they'll get.
As seen above, there are straps with toe clips that are widely renowned for being easy to get into. The toe clips keep the strap open and they allow you to more easily strap in while riding. One major issue with these types of straps is durability. Regardless of the toe clips, lots of use or a bad bail can very easily break your clips, leaving you essentially strapless, (the tiny straps that work with toe clips just don't have the strength you'll want when performing advanced techniques.
Perhaps the best suggestion that can be given to people that don't have the ideal straps listed below is to tie the excess material that you feed through your straps, (if you were smart and went with something other than leather). By tying the material, you'll be saving yourself a tremendous amount of trouble later. Nylon or synthetic fabric materials tend to be slick and they slip out from buckles easily. Leather isn't bad when it comes to adjusting your straps but it definitely has disadvantages.
Ideal Straps
When it comes to straps, a lot of opinion is involved. Different people like different feels when it comes to strapping in, but, there is a definite difference in quality and durability with the Reload nylon straps. First, they are padded a bit so they're more comfortable. Second, they are made with tough nylon that holds up well against the elements. Lastly, the adjustable velcro on these is very easy to fit to your feet. If you're going to get straps and you don't already have experience with one type or another, these, (or equivalent types of straps to these) are highly recommended.
Middle of the Road Straps
Buckle straps are often made of fabric for their top and leather for their straps. Some utilize fabric rather than leather. This example to the left has a toe clip attached but toe clips are not necessary if you adjust buckle straps correctly. These straps are decent enough, but beware of leather whenever you look into your options. If left in rain, leather will deteriorate quickly. The last thing you want is to try skid stopping only to break your strap midway through execution. That could certainly land you a bad injury, (mostly because the other foot will still be strapped while you fumble to regain control).
As mentioned above - if you opt for straps like these, especially if you're not using leather, you should consider tying the material fed through your buckles just below the buckle. If you don't, the straps will almost certainly come loose.
These straps are much cheaper than the ideal straps above, yet they aren't as durable. Some designs make use of velcro adjustment as well as buckles and some like the one above uses just leather straps and buckles to adjust. Either way you go, these straps are durable for the most part and they'll do the job. They don't always stay in position as well as the padded nylon Reload straps, but, with a little coercion, you can usually get into them without a problem.
As mentioned above - if you opt for straps like these, especially if you're not using leather, you should consider tying the material fed through your buckles just below the buckle. If you don't, the straps will almost certainly come loose.
These straps are much cheaper than the ideal straps above, yet they aren't as durable. Some designs make use of velcro adjustment as well as buckles and some like the one above uses just leather straps and buckles to adjust. Either way you go, these straps are durable for the most part and they'll do the job. They don't always stay in position as well as the padded nylon Reload straps, but, with a little coercion, you can usually get into them without a problem.
Bent Wheel Rim
If you're at the level of working on tricks, you'll run into this problem more often than those that are simply leisure riders. Even if you ARE just a leisure rider, it is possible to bend your rim. If you go over a curb while unseated too hard or if you bail and whack your tire against something solid like a tree, rock, road sign, car, etc. it is entirely possible to bend your rim.
There's no simple fix for this. You don't want to try bending it back in place. It will only leave you with a wheel that has low integrity and that will probably bend soon again. When this happens, it's time to invest in a new wheel. Total bummer, but not the worst thing that could happen to your bike. Frame damage is by far the worst thing that can happen - luckily, most fixed gear bikes use a steel frame to make them resilient against bumps and hits. No bike frame is invincible, though.
There's no simple fix for this. You don't want to try bending it back in place. It will only leave you with a wheel that has low integrity and that will probably bend soon again. When this happens, it's time to invest in a new wheel. Total bummer, but not the worst thing that could happen to your bike. Frame damage is by far the worst thing that can happen - luckily, most fixed gear bikes use a steel frame to make them resilient against bumps and hits. No bike frame is invincible, though.